We were lucky. We got to see Huangshan’s magnificence despite her capricious nature. She was in a playful mood, generously eager to show off all her clothes. From grey dense fog and drizzle to the dawn’s mauve sea of clouds to clear blue skies and then ethereally misty puffy clouds that dropped us right in the middle of an ink painting. Huangshan is jaw-droppingly beautiful in all weather. She truly deserves all the accolades showered on her by poets and painters and travelers ancient and contemporary.  Continue reading

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Faded beauties of Anhui

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The hills around Hongcun are dotted with many similar ancient villages. Nanping, Lucun, etc are some of the villages worth checking out when the crowd in Hongcun gets too much. There, the tall white-washed walls and graceful swoops of dark tiled roofs that denote the Hui style are common. Many of these old towns are not on the average tourist radar and have fallen into varying states of quiet decay. As the young moved from these old villages to the big cities, the population has dwindled, leaving behind mostly elderly residents and creating an impression of lonely depletion. Or maybe it was just because of the rain that day.  Continue reading

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P1020725UNESCO World Heritage site, Hongcun lives up to its fame of being one of China’s prettiest villages. Almost all visitors who visit Huangshan nearby will stop by Hongcun and its UNESCO twin Xidi for a visit. Hongun is undeniably beautiful –  once you get past the selfie stick brigade, the expensive entry fee and the many shops selling green tea and souvenirs – but there are other quieter villages nearby that are equally worth a look. It is for that reason that we decided to base ourselves in Hongcun for two nights.

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p1020381At first glance, Wuyuan in the rain looked dismal. This tiny county seat looked like any other Chinese town – a bit grimy around the edges, with a main strip full of neon-lit hotels and tea shops that looked half empty most of the time. The Chinese construction boom has reached Wuyuan and there is heavy development on the outskirts. At night, the town is poorly lit with sometimes the only pools of light emerging from the doorways of shops. It is not a place you’d want to linger in or come specifically to see. Wuyuan works best as a base to visit the lovely white villages. But yet in the short time I’ve been there, Wuyuan’s disarming charm peeks out and it lies in the people we meet.  Continue reading

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Japan: A visual essay in black and white


It’s probably because I miss Japan. And also because I’m very much behind in blogging. I was looking through some pictures taken last year on a visit to Japan with my mother and my sister. With so many trips to Japan since 2007, this was the first time I took so many pictures in black and white. I’ve said before that for some weird reason I’ve always viewed Japan edged with a sense of melancholy. Despite having seen her soaked in vivid colour – in the reds of autumn, the pinks of spring, greens of summer and winter’s pristine whites, photographing her in black and white presents a slightly different tone. I’m no pro photographer but I hope you enjoy these snapshots and maybe see Japan a little differently.  Continue reading

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Hoi An: Beauty in the details


Coming from a country just one degree north of the Equator, you would think I would be used to the sweaty stickiness of tropical heat. But Hoi An upped the ante and took humidity and heat to a whole new level. Everyday, barely half an hour after leaving the cool sanctuary of our hotel, we would already be dripping with sweat. It is a heat that saps the energy and the enthusiasm for sightseeing. And so, it was in this 38 or 39 degree heat, that we would half-heartedly wander Hoi An’s lanes, small museums, temples and shops, our explorations interspersed with frequent cafe breaks. But in the bright whiteness of Hoi An’s light against a backdrop of cloudless blue skies, we found small delightful details of the old town and therein lies its charm.  Continue reading

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Hoi An by candlelight

P1030583When the moon is full, the candles are lit, the fluorescent tubes take a rest and the lanterns glow. Twice a month, the World Heritage Site of the old Vietnamese trading port of Hoi An reclaims its romantic charm. Well at least that’s the politically correct version you read about in all the brochures. But actually, it was hot, sticky and extremely crowded (come nightfall everyone in the resort-laden strip of Danang suddenly descends upon the town). Despite the kitsch and the heat, it was hard to be unmoved by the colourful lanterns that hang above our heads or the pushy spunky charms of a child selling us our lantern offerings for the river. If you look hard enough, beyond the sweaty crowd, and venture a little beyond the main drags, there are vignettes, lit by candlelight and solitary street-lamps that hint of the romance of Hoi An offers.  Continue reading

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