Wuyuan’s secret eyrie of flowers

zhapingtan1Perched high above and deep within Wuyuan county is a little village. No bus can negotiate the multiple hairpin turns it takes to get here. As the narrow road winds ever higher, I started to feel mildly queasy, not being one for steep winding car rides. I looked out, the forests below falling away and in the distance, only blue hills and skies. Where were we going? We were searching for canola fields but up this high no one in their right mind could be planting anything. Where would they find enough flat land? How would they transport the crops? Clearly my doubts were misplaced. For the car came to a stop and my breath caught. This is what I saw. An impossible Eden as remote as you could place it. A flower garden in the eagles’ nest. This is the ancient, tiny hamlet of Zhapingtan.

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Wuyuan: On the flower trail

yancun morning1Wuyuan in spring and in the thick of the canola blooming season is packed with tourists who chase the flower trail. The well-known villages of Little Likeng, Jiangwan, Xiaoqi etc are flooded with visitors at this time of the year. We didn’t want to do the conga with everyone else and so we headed for the villages which were not quite on the tourist radar yet. Not too difficult to do since the county is quite big and the villages are quite spread out. In fact, the same scenic beauty spreads beyond Wuyuan across the border to Anhui province as well. With wheels and a driver, it was a beautiful day out exploring the path less taken but equally beautiful. Continue reading

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Spring in Wuyuan, China

edited - 29Yellow is the colour of spring in Wuyuan county. From small garden patches to sprawling fields, canola in bloom gives Wuyuan bursts of sunny yellow and its well deserved title of China’s most beautiful villages. The landscape is classic China – ancient stone against the softness of the yellow flowers and the occasional peach blossom. On my first visit to Wuyuan years ago, I did not manage to see this, having come in April when the season was already over. This time, I was determined to see it in all its glory. And so in mid March, I made my way back to Wuyuan county. Continue reading

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The West Lake of Hangzhou


A dreamy version of Hangzhou’s West Lake. But the reality is a lot less serene. The shores of West Lake, particularly nearer the city, are crowded and busy and great for people watching. After Huangshan, we took the 4-hour direct bus to Hangzhou and spent a day or two there before we flew home. It wasn’t our first time to Hangzhou or to the West Lake, but like all who visit Hangzhou, the West Lake is a natural magnet. On that humid early summer’s day that we visited, the roses were in full bloom and the lakeside promenade was teeming with people. Parents, babies, the elderly, young lovers, cyclists, kite enthusiasts, everyone was out for a walk. It was the Chinese version of the Italian passegiata at sunset. Continue reading

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We were lucky. We got to see Huangshan’s magnificence despite her capricious nature. She was in a playful mood, generously eager to show off all her clothes. From grey dense fog and drizzle to the dawn’s mauve sea of clouds to clear blue skies and then ethereally misty puffy clouds that dropped us right in the middle of an ink painting. Huangshan is jaw-droppingly beautiful in all weather. She truly deserves all the accolades showered on her by poets and painters and travelers ancient and contemporary.  Continue reading

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Faded beauties of Anhui

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The hills around Hongcun are dotted with many similar ancient villages. Nanping, Lucun, etc are some of the villages worth checking out when the crowd in Hongcun gets too much. There, the tall white-washed walls and graceful swoops of dark tiled roofs that denote the Hui style are common. Many of these old towns are not on the average tourist radar and have fallen into varying states of quiet decay. As the young moved from these old villages to the big cities, the population has dwindled, leaving behind mostly elderly residents and creating an impression of lonely depletion. Or maybe it was just because of the rain that day.  Continue reading

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P1020725UNESCO World Heritage site, Hongcun lives up to its fame of being one of China’s prettiest villages. Almost all visitors who visit Huangshan nearby will stop by Hongcun and its UNESCO twin Xidi for a visit. Hongun is undeniably beautiful –  once you get past the selfie stick brigade, the expensive entry fee and the many shops selling green tea and souvenirs – but there are other quieter villages nearby that are equally worth a look. It is for that reason that we decided to base ourselves in Hongcun for two nights.

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p1020381At first glance, Wuyuan in the rain looked dismal. This tiny county seat looked like any other Chinese town – a bit grimy around the edges, with a main strip full of neon-lit hotels and tea shops that looked half empty most of the time. The Chinese construction boom has reached Wuyuan and there is heavy development on the outskirts. At night, the town is poorly lit with sometimes the only pools of light emerging from the doorways of shops. It is not a place you’d want to linger in or come specifically to see. Wuyuan works best as a base to visit the lovely white villages. But yet in the short time I’ve been there, Wuyuan’s disarming charm peeks out and it lies in the people we meet.  Continue reading

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Japan: A visual essay in black and white


It’s probably because I miss Japan. And also because I’m very much behind in blogging. I was looking through some pictures taken last year on a visit to Japan with my mother and my sister. With so many trips to Japan since 2007, this was the first time I took so many pictures in black and white. I’ve said before that for some weird reason I’ve always viewed Japan edged with a sense of melancholy. Despite having seen her soaked in vivid colour – in the reds of autumn, the pinks of spring, greens of summer and winter’s pristine whites, photographing her in black and white presents a slightly different tone. I’m no pro photographer but I hope you enjoy these snapshots and maybe see Japan a little differently.  Continue reading

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Hoi An: Beauty in the details


Coming from a country just one degree north of the Equator, you would think I would be used to the sweaty stickiness of tropical heat. But Hoi An upped the ante and took humidity and heat to a whole new level. Everyday, barely half an hour after leaving the cool sanctuary of our hotel, we would already be dripping with sweat. It is a heat that saps the energy and the enthusiasm for sightseeing. And so, it was in this 38 or 39 degree heat, that we would half-heartedly wander Hoi An’s lanes, small museums, temples and shops, our explorations interspersed with frequent cafe breaks. But in the bright whiteness of Hoi An’s light against a backdrop of cloudless blue skies, we found small delightful details of the old town and therein lies its charm.  Continue reading

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